Monday, January 21, 2013

Back at the New

Yeah, I've been back home for 3 months but time flies. Working on the 2nd edition book is keeping me busy but thanks to the gift of global warming we've been able to climb a lot also. I've been trying to take more photos and video and I got a some sweet new lenses that I've had a lot of fun with. Here's some cheese ball waterfall shots. I know photos like this are overplayed but I enjoy taking them. You will look at them and you will like it.

This one never exists unless it's pretty much flood stage on the river. You can find it, on the right day, a bit right of the Pinnacle. 

Right near the road on the way up past Sunshine Buttress. 

I found this 50-footer today on a long bushwhack from the Hole towards Domino Point. This gorge still holds a lot of secrets...at least from me. 

Yesterday was a beautiful day and the whole crew made it out to Beauty Mountain. The sky was blue and the rock was sticky. The people were good. We climbed classic rigs such as Steve Martin's Face, Chorus Line and Fat Man's Folly. Then Pat and I got pummeled on our projects again. You will look at pictures of my friends and you will like it. 

Old Master, Porter Jarrard.

Whoa Jessa Goebel, put a rope on!

Kevin Umbel thinking about the next rig to crush.

My family.


Pat Goodman eyeing up his project. 

Now I'll recommend that you check out some videos. Here's one of Pat falling off his project yesterday. This was shot with the new 50mm at 1.8. I always wondered how they got that amazingly crisp look in videos. Prime lenses...that's how. I'm a rookie. I'll figure this stuff out eventually.

Click on the image to watch the very short video. Make sure to bump the settings up to HD. 

Here's another one I put together of Peder Groseth climbing Mono Loco (5.14a). The footage is shaky. I was in a tree and the wind was blowing me all over the place. 

This is a great video that Jon Glassberg put together when he visited. I was really happy to finally get some footage of Picket Fence. The moves are beautiful and, of course, after it took me 4 years to do it, it's special to me. The majority of the movie is Ben Spannuth tearing up the gorge. He was able to get the 2nd ascent of Picket Fence and two more 5.14 first ascents. Ben is awesome and I can't wait until he visits again. 

As for my climbing life, I'm all in on the Coal Train project. I've been able to eek a one hang out a few times. I had myself convinced it was 5.13d for a while. Now, after a bunch of work and having it dialed, I'm thinking a notch harder. Regardless, it is the best piece of stone I've ever touched. It's a contender for the best route in the country of any grade. Big words, I know. But for real...look at it.