Thursday, December 8, 2011
The second crux comes just shy of the chains on some of the smallest crimps I've ever matched up on. The one they show the close-up of Sharma grabbing in the video is the 'good one.' Ha! I ended up getting a high left foot and doing the move static. Overcoming blank stretches of rock at the New has taken me a decade to understand the technique. The beta that works requires putting your foot by your shoulder. Understandably, Sharma wasn't able to crack the code in the hour he spent on the route. I think that's interesting and a testament to the specialization required for some of these climbs. As you can see, this is a screen grab from video. I've got a cool concept for this short film that will take a while to put together over the winter.