Sunday, July 22, 2012

Murder Dog's death toll rose to two marmots yesterday. We did not let her chase this majestic specimen.

Aspen. I love the way it quakes.

Billy and Elissa.

Outside the library (AKA: DPM's temporary branch office)

Chillin' before the business on Aunt Flo (5.13+). New rig I got done this morning. This was the last of the rigs I bolted here originally...but i bolted another one yesterday so I'm not quite done.

Business time on Aunt Flo.

I bolted a bunch of stuff on this trip. Some of it is really, really good. I've spent a great deal of time making outrageous claims like, "that's the best pitch in the state." I think I've said that more than once. It's a bad habit of mine. I think over the past few years I've said, "That's the best 12c I've ever done," probably in excess of 30 times. OK, I'm starting to realize that sometimes I just really like rock climbing and my emotions get the best of me.
But seriously, this one here... I will never, ever, in my life find a line this incredible again. I pulled a 12 hour bolting shift in direct sun to get this thing in. It's far too hot to climb on it yet but's amazing. I put the anchor right at 35 meters. The climbing above eases off anyway. It's a 35 meter arete that starts steep at the bottom. Like 35 degrees overhanging. It snakes up to vertical after about 60 feet. Likely in the 14a range.
Called "Fanning the Twister"  

Monday, July 2, 2012

No time for titles

It's been my motto lately and the mantra I've been living by: There's no time! I've never felt this busy in my life. I know a lot of people think I'm on vacation but when this is all over I think I'm gonna crash hard. I'm working hard to stay online when I need to be, climbing like crazy, bolting in the evenings, taking care of Max and his annoying quirks. I've been living the beaver life for a while now and love it. Here's some photos:

It's a deer.

Sunset over the Bighorns. This is from where we camp. Not too bad. The Wyoming sky is usually bright and crisp. These hazy sunsets are from all the smoke in the air. The whole west is burning down.

The biggest bull I'd ever seen. This Jabba the Hut looking monster is guarding that sicky crag up there. If I had time, I'd photoshop in Princess Leia leashed up in front of him wearing some scandalous clothing.

Screen image. I've got some video of Elissa working this incredible 13b called TWC. She also got some uncut send footage of my new rig Mixed Message, a little 13 dogface I rapbolted the crap out of. That monster is 16 bolts! The first ten protect toe-cramping 11c face. Then it gets raw dog.

Here's that screen image of Mixed Message I was talking about. This is at bolt 15. It's a big face. Max is officially pissed and refusing to let us climb tomorrow. I am extremely dissatisfied. Looks like we might be paying 1000's of dollars to sit around in town for a few days. I am really rethinking the Sprinter van decision. I love this rig but have yet to get through a trip without a serious thousands of dollars let down. This time it's something about a harmonic balancer. The forums call it a 'common problem' just like the last 3 'common problems' we had. Not psyched.