Friday, March 4, 2011

Beauty Facelift by Dr. NRAC

I was out at my favorite crag yesterday: Beauty Mountain.  Between taking burns on the mega proj, Kirk and I hiked around a bit and I was reminded just how much has gotten done in the past 5 years to make Beauty a safer place to climb.  One of the best crags in the country is almost completely reequipped with Stainless Steel (SS) hardware.  The rusty old time-bomb bolts are gone and this showpiece cliff now represents the successful efforts of the New River Rendevous (fundraiser), NRAC, and most importantly, the people that have attended the Rendevous and/or donated money to NRAC.

It would be much easier to create a short list of what still needs to be accomplished at Beauty but instead I'll give a rundown on how much has been done!

You want it you got it 5.9 sport:  Completely rebolted with SS

SS top anchors for all trad routes including Journey to the Center of the Brain 5.7, Out of Mind 5.10a, Hot Flash 5.10b, Brain Teasers 5.10a

SS top anchors on Mensa 11d, Dancing in the Flesh 12a, and Butta 11d

Stonger than a stainless steel bolt on Chunky Monkey?  Doubt it.  Mike Turner photo

Chunky Monkey 12b: completely rebolted with SS

Mono Loco 14a: New route!  first route bolted (SS) and sent under the new NPS climbing management plan.

Climax Control 5.13b: 3 new SS bolts and top anchors.  Remaining bolts removed and inspected.

Travisty 5.13c: 2 bolts replaced with SS

Super Whiny Bugs 5.14a:  completely rebolted with SS

Whiny Bugs: rusty pin replaced with 1/2" SS bolt

Mulatto Serpent 5.12b: completely rebolted with SS

David Gibbons on Disturbance.  Safe above new SS bolts!

Genocide Cave: Done!

Genocide 12a:  rusty pin replaced with SS bolt and SS top anchors

Green Envy 12c  and Disturbance 11d:  Two of the best in the gorge completely rebolted with SS

Blood Meridian 12d:  two rusty pins replaced with one SS bolt

Burning Buttress: Done!

Kurt Smith had a big hand in this by putting SS top anchors on the trad routes:

Happy Hands 5.9, Spider Wand 5.10b, Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 5.10b, Burning Calves 5.10b, Rod Serling Crack 5.10b, Quick Robin to the Bat Crack 5.10a

Elaina Smith on Burning Calves.  New SS top anchors.  Mike Turner photo.

Porter Jarrard took care of the mixed classics:

Will to Power 11c R: New 12mm SS bolt at the crux before the looooong runout!  New SS top anchor
Chorus Line 12c:  4 new 12mm SS bolts in the right places this time!
Steve Martin's Face 11c:  New 12mm SS bolt to replace Andrew Barry's super dangerous expansionless carrot bolt!

Fade to Black 12b:  completely rebolted with SS
Sportster 5.13b:  4 bolts replaced with 12mm SS
Grace Note 12b:  Classic!  completely rebolted with 12mm SS
Ad Lib 12d:  rusty pin replaced with SS bolt

Gunnin' for the SS top anchors of Super Crack.  Mike Turner photo

Thunder Buttress:

Super Crack 5.9 and Gun Club 12c:  new SS top anchors
Beast in Me 12a: new SS top anchors
Screamer Crack 5.8 and Mushrooms 10a: new SS top anchors
Left 11d and Right 11c Sons of Thunder:  new SS top anchors, old bolt replaced with new SS bolt on right
Loud Noise 12b: new SS top anchor
Let's Make a Deal:  completely rebolted with SS

Ram's Head: new SS top anchors for rappell site

Estimated volunteer man hours required to complete this job.....?  A lot.  And that's just Beauty!  This represents just a fraction of the work completed recently.  Beauty has about 145 routes that are almost all in good shape now but that's just 145 of the 2500 routes in the gorge.  NRAC is fighting against time to replace the slowly deteriorating bolts that still lurk in the region.  Just know that merely attending the Rendevous raises money to continue this effort.  Donating money doesn't hurt either ;-)   As long as we continue to be supported by the climbers that love this region NRAC will continue to make it a safer place to climb.  See you all soon at the Rendevous


David said...

Michael, you need help. Also, you should consider getting comprehensive car insurance policy with a low deductible. Because when your crappy little ride is sitting there all alone at cathedral parking lot and you are up there flailing on Heretic Wisdom, ol' Hillbilly Sarah or Jenn are gonna be putting rocks through your windshield and holes in your tires. You may want to also consider carrying some mace, unless you think your are the craziest bitch on the diagram. Heck, I am not even on the diagram and I want to slap your trashy fat face. Not everyone has had your, obviously traumatic, life experience to leave them so venomous, hate-filled, fixated on sex, adopting the attitude of the vicious, truck-driver-types you sing to at night for a living.

postmaster said...

David, you must have me confused with Misty Murphy?

Levi Rose said...

Thanks for all of your hard work....the harness hanging, rusty bolt slaying and the shiny new hardware that graces the NRG.

postmaster said...

Update: Kirk just reminded me that he replaced the rest of the hardware on Sportster with 12mm SS and added a bolt to the bottom so you don't have to stick clip from the high ledge anymore. Sportster is completely reequipped.