Friday, March 12, 2010


Haven't done much on the van for a while. The weather cleared up and I had a three day climbing clinic with some Greeks. They taught me what to call Lilah in Greek: skilos. Plus I've shifted my focus to 'mega proj 3' in the cirque. Got pretty close to sticking the crux yesterday. I think it's not too far off if the weather holds. It never ceases to amaze me how this stuff comes together. It took me at least 3 days to climb the 13b bit to the crux roof. When I redpointed that the first time I was completely pumped and barely clipped the anchor. I've linked it about 6 times since then and yesterday it felt like a warm-up, which is how it has to feel if you're going to recover enough before the crux roof. I fumbled my foot sequence a bit on the crux intro moves which may have contributed to the failure. I still almost stuck it. Pretty soon though....I hope. Of course, there is a good chance that even if I make it through the roof I'll fall on the headwall which is about 13a by itself. I love projects, climbing, vans, whatever.

In other news I'm pretty sure I sold the Westy. Goodbye Troy. We certainly shared the best years of our lives together. Troy and I seem to share a similar lifepath. Those years were a time when we both supported each other in extended roadtrips. Driving back and forth from California to Oregon to Utah, to West Virginia, many times. Now it's time to reel it in a bit. We'll both be taking shorter trips now as we've gotten a bit aged. Fortunately, climbing is in Troy's blood as it is in mine. The new owner is a climber and will be taking him to the two best climbing areas in the country: the New and the Red. Godspeed Troy. We will meet again.

No comments: